Does anyone rock the boat with their décor any more? The white table clothes, seriously basic green-greyish banquettes and brick coloured chairs and floor of Luella are dull – at best. We suppose that’s to create a better background for the food at chef Ben de Vries (Andalu, Ecco, LuLu) and his wife Rachel Lewis de Vries first restaurant. This Russian Hill spot could either be a neighbourhoody joint or a destination – but that depends on who you ask. Ricotta salata with orange slices, sweetbread starter, lemon risotto and a quail- au –vin get mixed reviews. Some love it. Some hate it. The best dish on the menu however is the Coca Cola ribs, which helped to get Andalu their fan base, and are equally worthy here.

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