The aptly-named St Alban (as though it were some tough private school where getting in seems to be the only tough part) is the latest effort from Jeremy King and Chris Corbin (ex Ivy and Caprice, current owners of the Wolseley). Though complaints seem to be that it's not as good as the others, and too "corporate", the Med thing, with food inspired by Italy, Portugal and Spain, seems to be working well for them. At the helm is chef Francesco Mazzei (Franco's, Anda) turning out deep fried squid with tartare sauce, pappardelle with duck ragu, slow roasted pig and Sicilian rabbit stew with raisins and pine nuts. The two misses on the menu are the grilled shrimps with chickpeas and the steak. Other than that, all in all a good meal, but we recommend just wandering in early to secure a table so you won't feel like the experience didn't quite merit all the times you hit re-dial.

$$$$

terms of use
© Copyright 1998-2024 Hipguide