Umbaba is the new Chinawhite with the same repeat offenders at the Air Street location; Rory Keegan, John Stephens and Marc Merran. Er, Africa it's not though the DJ gets to play out of huge cooking pot. We're kidding. That's not African either. A mixed reception because there hasn't been theme overkill in London - so it's not the usual stark, minimalist thing - it's still a bit pricey in an unjustified way with a crowd that seems to be spending money because they're not truly sure of their taste. Black Am Ex anyone? That said the basement venue's post-colonial theme, complete with gasoline cans as furniture in the restaurant, is executed to perfect details. Try as you might in your white tent safari VIP, you won't forget you're in London once you meet the cranky waif waitresses. Worth a visit but since you don't need to prove your worth by bleeding it out in British Pounds, might we suggest moving on to their other Soho spot, Movida?

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