It is hard to be all things to all people. And yet Lydia Shire's incredible Scampo succeeds. Attached to the Liberty Hotel, this restaurant, with two main dining sections, a delightful Mozzarella Bar overlooking the Tandoori oven and an outdoor patio is suited to a myriad of diners. One could come here alone or a deux for any of their wonderful thin crust pizzas or one of her fabulous naan breads (we like the one with prosciutto and field greens, drizzled with anchovy oil) and a glass of wine (and get away with spending about $20 a person). Or a weary hotel guest could come in for her generous cut of pork chop or Wagyu Steak (order the peas and carrot surprise with it.) Or diners looking to impress parents or visitors could go for the whole deal and book a table to try her pastas, fish specials and mozzarella appetisers (they make the cheese in- house and we loved the burrata best.) Though her Italian standards are pleasing, where Shire shines, is her Indian cross- over dishes. With flavours that could convert even those scared of Indian fare, we like her grilled giant scallops the best. Done with a balsamic eggplant, a cucumber yoghurt raita and poppadoms, just trust us and try it.

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